When it comes to cool there is only one place that can boast the beginnings of so many brands that have revolutionised the surf, skate and fashion industries. That place is California. Stranger takes a look at the goods, both old and new...

Words by Lotte Mahon

First published in Stranger 14 - April 2007

trainers by vans

trainers by vans

Vans: California SoleThe first pair of Vans shoes crossed the counter in 1966. Its founder Paul Van Doren found himself perfectly positioned to market his thick-bottom soled shoes to the budding skateboarders that swarmed California in the mid 1970s. Later it was the turn of the BMX riders, but when the legendary surf bum Jeff Spicoli (played to perfection by Sean Penn) donned a pair in the 1982 movie Fast Times at Ridgemont High, Vans were rocketed into the mainstream. Since then the company has strived to support both pro and amateur athletes by hosting events and tours throughout the US and the UK. In 1996 they ventured into apparel and ten years later they hit the slopes with a complete snowboarding outwear collection. With flagship stores throughout Europe it seems that Vans will be hitting decks for long time to come. www.vans.co.uk

fleece by patagonia

tee by patagonia

Patagonia: Green SleevesYvon Chouinard is a ‘do-it-yourself’ kind of guy. In 1957 when he couldn’t find the right pitons, he decided to make them himself with remarkable results. Soon Chouinard’s ‘Lost Arrows’ were in demand and a business was burgeoning (albeit out of the boot of his car!) By 1970, with the help of Tom Frost, Chouinard Equipment was the largest climbing hardware company in the US but the environmental
after-effects of piton use were weighing on their minds.  They decided to move away from the damaging pitons and developed alternative hardware and began promoting ‘clean climbing’. In 1973 Patagonia was born and since then it has been heralded as an example of a successful ethical business, promoting fair labour and producing sustainably sourced garments from around the world. In 2005 they launched a recycling programme, allowing customers to return worn out Polartec fleeces from any manufacturers. With wetsuits made from non-petroleum based ingredients on the market and sustainable surfboards in development, Patagonia is continuing to lead the way in both product quality and business. www.patagonia.com

jacket by stussy

hoodie by stuusy

Stussy: Design of the TimesOriginating from the surf scene around Laguna Beach, Stussy was the brainchild of Shawn Stussy whose love of the surf grew organically into a cult brand. A shaper at heart, Shawn experimented into promotional tees and shorts adorned with his surname in a graffiti tag style. The tees proved popular and soon Shawn’s designs were spreading throughout the surf/ skate community and beyond.  The innovative design was a breath of fresh air at the time when fashion had little to say about subculture. A collective of like-minded artists, DJs, skaters, surfers and musicians from all over the world soon came together and Shawn provided them all with Stussy ‘staff’ tees and the International Stussy Tribe was born. With a strong company ethos that refused to sell out to capitalise on demand, the brand has grown over the decades and has remarkably managed to retain its credibility. www.stussystore.co.uk

deck by girl

deck by girl

Girl Skateboards: Pretty Vacant
“I still wake up everyday and feel lucky to be surrounded by the people I work with.” Designer, Tony Larson is a man happy in his work. And who wouldn’t be? His employer, Girl Skateboards are still riding high after 14 years at the top of the skate industry. From humble beginnings, Girl has gone way beyond what its founders, Rick Howard, Mike Carroll and Spike Jonze dared imagine. Times have changed as Rick Howard told Stranger: “Things are very different now from the days of Spike packing international orders in the back of the warehouse. We modelled ourselves after a bunch of kooks just doing it.” And however green they were, it certainly did the business no harm. Today the Girl family, which includes Chocolate and Lakai, are the dominant force in skateboarding, helped no end by the pioneering graphics of their infamous Art Dump co-op, lead by Andy Jenkins, who since the early days has kept a level head: “There was usually so much work to do that I just went full steam ahead, with no real thoughts about image or legit marketing... we just wanted to maintain a sense of humour.” Job done. www.girlskateboards.com